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04

Complexities of Nail Polish 

Project Duration

I completed this project during the final year of my bachelor's, from November 2023 to June 2024.

The Project

My project explores the complexities of nail polish through a research-driven approach. I combined scientific data with personal stories to investigate the product life cycle of nail polish and its broader implications. The project aims to highlight the intricate and interconnected nature of the products we purchase.

" From a small bottle of nail polish emerged a layered story of identity, social meaning, and environmental impact. By combining scientific data and personal interviews, I uncovered a gap in beauty narratives: transparency. My background in research and storytelling helped me bring these invisible layers to the surface and invite people to question what’s really behind the products they use every day."

The Outcome

My project culminated in a video that presents my research along with interviews with nail polish users. The video encourages viewers to question and be cautious of the products they purchase. It showcases the complexity of the products we buy and the lack of transparency surrounding them. 

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I showcased my final year project at an exhibition space for the BA Design programme at Goldsmiths University of London. For my exhibition booth, I set up a mini nail salon where people could come, and I could do their nails while chatting about the project, nail polish, and their lives. The experience was incredibly enriching. My video was showcased in a separate theatre space during the exhibition. 

Project Contextual Influences 

Due to complex production processes we don’t truly know what we are buying. This lack of transparency raises concerns about product safety, environmental impact and more. A prime example of this can be seen in fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara, which have been accused of using polluting factories, leading to increased demands for product transparency. 

Why Nail Polish?

I could’ve done the same project with any product: a bicycle or even a lamp. The object itself isn’t the important part but rather the purpose and exploration behind it. I chose nail polish for my project because it was the beauty product I wore most often and began to distrust after watching the documentary “Toxic Beauty,” which is about the harmful chemicals found in beauty products.

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The Guardian, “H&M, Zara and Marks & Spencer linked to polluting viscose factories in Asia”, Tansy Hoskins. 

Documentary ‘Toxic Beauty’, released on 28 April 2019, director Phyllis Ellis

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Nail Polish Research 

I began by researching and comprehending the chemical ingredients present in nail polish. The complexity of modern-day products often results in a lack of awareness about their composition. Therefore, I embarked on this journey to better understand these ingredients and their significant impact on our planet. 

 

In the infographics shown, I started conducting this research by investigating a specific nail polish called ‘Back to Love’ by Essie and studying its chemical composition. 

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Infographic of the main chemical components of nail polish 

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Profile of nitrocellulose one of the main chemicals used in nail polish

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Infographic of the purposes of some nail polish chemical ingredients

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Image of 'Back to Love' by Essie nail polish which I based my research on 

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Gigamapping: The Life Cycle of a Nail Polish

I created a gigamap that tracks the nail polish production process from raw material acquisition to disposal, including all the ingredients used. It shows the environmental and social impacts of creating nail polish. The image below is a snippet of the gigamap that tracks the production of nitrocellulose, a key ingredient in nail polish. 

Gigamap Link: 

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Initial Interviews 

I interviewed nail polish users to understand their relationship with the product and test their knowledge based on my research. Until then, my work was mainly data collection, but real-life insights were equally valuable. I drafted interview questions based on my research, along with responses. I also offered to do the interviewee’s nails during the interviews encouraging participation and gaining more in-depth responses by letting them experience the nail polish firsthand.

Reflection for Improvements

In the first video interviews, I varied backgrounds, camera angles, and object placement. For the final version, I improved visual consistency by filming all interviews with a white background, at the same distance, and with hands facing the same direction.

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Clip from first video interviews conducted

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Clip from first video interviews conducted

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Video Layers

My video was visually organized into three sections: the map background, interviews, and visual descriptors like photos or icons. The maps aligned with the interview questions; for example, a question about the environmental impacts of nail polish disposal would show a map of related disposal methods and effects based on prior research. Interviews featured questions, followed by interviewee responses and my later answers. Visual descriptors appeared as pop-ups over the map and interviews to help viewers visualize the discussion or provide additional information.

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 Map on the methods and effects of nail polish disposal

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 One of the interviews conducted

Visual descriptor of dead fish

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All the layers of the video combined 

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